O-shaped Holy Ridge Trek (O型聖陵线)

Background:

After one year since our last trek in Taiwan on the DaXiaoJianShan, we came back to for our 2nd challenge for the difficult O-shaped Holy Ridge Trek since our failed 1st attempt 2 years ago. Some of the team members were from that failed climb. What we covered was just day 1 of the climb to  XinDai mountain lodge and an immediate descend the next day.  For this climb, it was a dejavu for some of us and we hoped that we could go beyond where we left off.

This trek runs along the mountain peaks of the SheiPa National park covering the famous and popular Xueshan Main peak and Xueshan North Peak with the trail running above 3100m. The entry or exit point for this trail cuts across many steep cliffs, narrow mountain paths and climbers could start their climb in anti-clockwise starting from the trails for the Wuling Quadruple Mountain trail; or the popular Xueshan east trail that most climbers take just to climb Xueshan main peak and back.  Wuling Quadraple Trek itself is another climb package on its own, covering mountains like Mt Pintian (3524m), Mt ChihYou(3303m), Mt Tao (3325m), and Mt Kalahei (3133m). It starts from the trail head from Wuling Farm and the trail is well marked, simple and easy to climb with minimum use of hands to climb. Most climbs for O-shaped Holy Ridge trek will start at the same trail head as the Quadrauple trek and subsequently when climbers reach Mt Pintian, it is from there that they can proceed on to the Holy Ridge line trek by descending on their first steep rock wall descend.

A section of the O-shape Holy Ridgeline Trek (Near Mt XiuBuLan)

This holy ridge trek has been wildly use by the locals to define how a man can shoulder the responsibilities of having a family if he can overcome the many difficulties on this trek.  Maybe it is the other way round, once you have a family, you may need to think twice about doing this climb. Suddenly i had a change of words from using climb versus trek as this trail leaves a deep impression for many of us with the steep climbs and dangerous maneuvers that we had to make to complete the climb successfully. The difficult part of the trek is where most of the risky climbs were involved, which are all located between Mt Pintian and Mt Xueshan North peak. Beyond these two points, the trail resembles that of the other Taiwan mountain trails.

This O shaped trek is not for the faint hearted, not just the trail itself is physically challenging as one has to carry their full packs all the way, but also to overcome the tough terrain that requires careful foot work and rock climbing experiences. The trail involves many steep cliffs drops that climbers have to rely on their upper power  strength to carefully climb down the many steep rock cliffs. These parts of the climbs are located right in the middle of the trek and retreating and moving forward has the same level of risks and difficulty. Care and safety have to be taken seriously and accidents could be fatal as at times,  the sides are drops to steep valley below and with the lose rocks, there is no way to tell when you will stop if you happen to fall off.   The trail brings you to sights and views that the usual climbers to SheiPa National Park would not be able to experience.  Looking at the Xueshan main peak from a different angle brings out the majestic feel of the mountain ranges, the feel of oneself being really in the spirit of mountain climbing. The trail has over the years been climbed by many but not in a over tourist way as this trail has the highest difficult level in Taiwan mountain climb scale.  With properly safety precautions and a good guide, the trail can be done with minimal risk. Everyone wants to climb and make it back home safely. Looking after one another and making decisive choice are factors to ensure a safe climb. As we as climbers always say, " The mountain is always there". Sometimes when there is a situation, there is no other choice but to make alternatives.

Day 0  (Meeting up)

This is the usually meeting up day where our climb group will get together individually and gather at the the usual meeting point at the Taipei Main Railway Station East Gate 3. Some of us arriving in Taipei a few days earlier to do some last minute hiking gear shopping, night market carbo loading or simply visiting around Taipei before the climb. For myself, I would take the same day flight and start my Day 0 leaving home from Singapore. Standard meetup time, 6pm. A good time where we had our own dinner and starting off the drive earlier to reach NanShan Village along the mountain road to WuLing Farm located within the ShiPa National Park. Made a quick stop at YiLan to pick up one of our climber who was touring Yilan and did some supplies top up at the local supermarket there.  We reached the homestay at NanShan Village earlier this time and had spare time to chit chat around and snack a little before calling it a day for the next day climb.

Day 1- The Climb Begins

Our mini bus at Nanshan Village to take us to the trail head at Wuling Farm

6am, Nanshan Village. Cloudy. Once again the weather reminded us of our failed climb the last round we attempted to do this Holy Ridge Climb ( ShengLing Xian).  The clouds in the mountain were thick and a light drizzle was already happening back then. This day, it was the same weather but all of us were hoping for better skies for the next few days to come. Weather forecast mentioned of good weather for a day within our 4 day climb.  With the gloomy weather, all of us were hopeful and were able to show our ethusiam for the climb ahead.

A quick breakfast at the homestay and off we went, boarding the mini bus and headed off into the mountain towards WuLing Farm which is the start point for our Holy Ridge Climb. It took an hour plus to get to the trail head within the SheiPa National Park. When we reached the car area, the rain was much heavier than before and it was a dressing up inside the minibus where we put on our rainpants and waterproof gear before walking into the rain and onto the trail.

At the car park area all ready to go. Rain or no rain, off we go !

 The initial part of the trail is part of the national park recreational area. The path is a paved concrete road that leads from the recreational park hostel up the hill slope towards the direction of TaoShan Waterfall. This place of interest is a popular half day walk for visitors to the park wanting to do some simple day walking within the park itself. The walk itself do requires some leg power to cover the distance on the paved inclined path towards the waterfall.  An easy 2hr is required or more to reach the waterfall. 

Crossing the suspension bridge at the start of the trek

Suspension bride spanning across the raging river below.

We left the trailhead at 8am after some logistical stuffs like meeting the porters, sorting out the food rations between the guide and the porters (we opted for the climb package not to carry the food rations, good thing about this is that the speedy pace of the porters would get to the lodge much earlier and have all the food to prepare dinner instead waiting for us all).  At the start of the trail is a crossing across a bridge that span across a raging river below and after which begins the paved concrete road leading all the way to the TaoShan waterfall (桃山瀑布)。

Walking on the concrete paved path of the national park among the trees

At the start of Mt PinTian trail head on the right. (requires permit for access)

After 90mins of walking on the hard concrete road, we arrived at the junction where the trail into the forest grounds begin.  This is the trailhead to Mt PingTian (品田山).  At this spot, there was a fire department car parked there meant to support the search and rescue activity for a missing person that had been missing for more than a week. Climbers were advised not to climb to TaoShan and not to use the TaoShan Lodge which was reserved for the team of search parties using that lodge as their base to search for the missing person. As of now when this blog is written, the search has long been called off and the search parties did not managed to find the missing person.  There are always cases of missing climbers trying trekking the mountains in Taiwan and it is always important to do the climb within someone together. The missing person was part of a climb group, just that he tried to return back to the lodge alone with other members proceeding on with the climb and thus gone missing.

Short break along the misty forest trail

Early lunch break within the forest ground. (around 2700m)

All of us ready to move on.

From the PingTian trailhead, we went on for another 90mins climb before taking another quick rest around 11am. The forest trail was shrouded in mist, light rain drops were stilling falling down and sometimes if you compared to a hot and sunny day, this is not that bad after all. Of course you dont get to see much up in the mountain with such a weather. But walking within the forest grounds are very much acceptable for such a weather. It was up and up, making of ways with our full backpacks up the soft grounds of the forest. There wasn't much of view as most trees were high enough to block any view of the scenery below.

Going up and up within the forest grounds

Our guide giving some trekking tips. (use of trekking pole, or breathing techniques.

Altitude check.

Directional markers. No distance indication here.

Finally out of the treeline and into the open (but cloudy)

Everyone in good mood after coming out of the forest.

We continued on the climb gaining altitude and as we went higher, we seemed to have left the rain below us. The rain has stopped at this altitude and below us was a thick blanket of clouds. Lunch was a quick eat and go over a 30mins break and everything else was walking and walking. At 1pm, we broke through the forest treeline and gain some open vastness feeling.  This is one feeling that mountain climbers like myself like to be in. Able to feel the greatness of nature. Once we came out of the forest treelines, everyone's mood seemed to lighten up with smiles all ready for the camera.

More and more rocks and tree trunks to clear.

At the river of rocks. At the side , path to summit of Mt ChiYou

Me and the river of rocks.

At around 3pm, we have reached the rockfall "river" which is the junction that goes to the summit of Mt ChiYou and the trail that continues on to our nights lodging.  This time, we reached this location much earlier than our last failed climb which we U-turn at our first night mountain lodge (XinDa Lodge). The climb to Mt Chiyou summit takes about 20mins and so we dropped our bags, with our cameras in hand, we made the climb on the rocky stone trail to the summit. Hopping from one big rock to the other until we reach the ridgeline at the top. 

At summit of Mt ChiYou

Mt Tao in the distant ( pic taken from Mt Chiyou summit)

The summit marker was quite bare and expose to the elements. Although the rain has stop, but it was still cloudy and the summit was quite windy and at times we found it difficult to stand upright. We stayed for a good 15mins at the summit taking pictures (group and solo) before headed down to where we left our packs. 

Back at the rock river after a successful summit to Mt ChiYou.

It was 4:15pm when we got back to the rockfall river. It was still a distance to our nights mountain lodge but there was more than enough of daylight to get there. After leaving the rockfall river area, we came across our first rock wall to climb. The rock wall was part of our previous climb and so seeing this time was dejavu for some of us. Not knowing that this rock wall  was just a warm up for the days of difficult and scary climbs. 

Our first use of the arms to climb on top.

The famous PinTian tree, perched on the side of the rock wall.

Must do photo shoot for any climbers on this trail.

Around 4:45pm, after another 30mins of trekking, we came to the famous and one of the most photoshot site of the PingTian tree (or chi you tree). No matter if you are a avid photographer or not, if you are here you will snap many shots of this tree which is uniquely perched on a steep rock wall just beside the rock path that climbers need to go pass. The best shot is to take the photo after passing the tree from a distance to the front. 

Seeing our day's end mountain lodge. Xinda Hut

Almost there to the lodge

Everyone is all in good mood to end today trek.

Direction signage near the Xinda hut.

Walking on the open plains to the Xinda hut.

After another 30mins ( it was 5:30pm), we saw our nights accommodation. the Xinda hut (新達山屋) below us from our higher ground. Seeing it gave everyone a sense that the day of tired trekking was coming to an end. A quick 15mins was all it took for us to descend the slopes and into the cooking fumes of the lodge which our porters were already busying preparing dinner. There were other teams already well rested in the lodge, chit chatting around with friends and among other teams. They were there to scale the Mt PinTian and return to Wuling Farm, with intentions initially to scale Mt Tao (桃山）but because of the search & rescue team activity in that area they decided to skip that.

In a summary of the day trek, we started off 6am from NanShan, reach car park around 7am, starting the trek at 8am from the trail head and reach the mountain lodge at 6pm. A full day of trekking for about 10 hours including rests. This is not the toughest day of the trek, but just the beginning I would say but can be used as a gauge to show if you would have difficulty covering the next 2 days of the climb. The last day (day 4) would not be a problem as that is the day for the descend. Trail and path is good and there is not need to climb or go down on all fours.

Day 2- The Challenge Begins

Sun rise with Mt Tao as the silhoutte

Outside Xinda Hut in the morning

4:30am, morning call up at the Xinda hut above 3000m. the night was cosy and not too cold. A walk to the outside of the hut was welcomed by clear skies with the sun rising above the clouds and silhoutting the mountain peaks around us. It was a 180 degree change of weather compared to the day before. The porters were busying preparing the simple morning breakfast while we packed our bags and assembled out the hut to enjoy the great morning alpine air.

Early morning, another group has already started climbing

It was 5:30am and most of us had finished our breakfast of buns, bread with cheese and some fresh lettuce to add moisture to the dry bread of the morning. Bread tends to become hard up in the mountain coldness which is something i don't fancy about hard bread.  Being a big group of 13, there was bound to be waiting time for everyone to get ready.  We were a colorful bunch of climbers with a rainbow colors of jackets and when all of us were ready, the need for group photo takings kicks in. Cameras, one after another took its turn to snap pictures of the group. 

In preparation for the day 2 trek after breakfast

Group photo before the start of day 2

At exactly 6am, we began our 2nd day of adventure on this Holy ridge line trek. Without any extra runway of flat ground, it was an immediately uphill task of conquering the hill in front of us. It was a steep climb all the way to the top before continuing on the trail to the next summit of Mt Pintian. There wasn't much time to warm up our engines and it was like ramming the accelerator to keep our legs moving.  That wasn't the only thing that was slowly us down for this climb, but the inviting warm golden rays from the morning sun that kept drawing out attention towards it. Our camera was busying snapping away the trail behind  us, with the Xinda hut and the sun just edging itself over the distant mount range and peaks near Mt Tao.

A steep path awaits us just immediately leaving the Xinda Hut

Blue skies, a good morning to start the climb

For the few of us who was straying behind, we were of a happy lot doing poses and taking pictures of each other.  We can hear the people at the front calling us to catch up but after some time, they gave up on us.  We were still able to catch up and actually felt less tired with those positive energy of diversion from climbing the tough slope to enjoying the view behind us.

For me, mountain trekking is not just about summiting, but the entire journey of enjoying each and every best moments of the trek. In this case, the warm morning sun casting its golden rays on the face of the mountain. It was rest stop again and a short break for some of us to do some gear adjustment like removing some of the warm retention clothing we had when we started the climb for the morning. This climb was the 1st climb for some of our climb mates who need more time to high mountain climbing.

Looking back at the sun just creeping over Mt Tao

Great weather expected for the day

Pausing on our trek to admire the morning mountain beauty.

Me and the regulars of taiwan mountain trekking.

Finally caught up with the gang after our lag behind photo shoots

Looking around us in the morning with the golden sun

Clear skies allowing us to see the distant mountain range

Out in the open, warm sun shining on our backs.

Up and up we climb.

Always have time for photo shoot.

Colorful line of climbers.

Getting warm and time to remove the warmer clothing.

Everyone in a clothes "take off" mode.

When we cleared the steep section of the trail and onto gentler grounds, the amount of camera time we had grew. From the photos here, you could see that many of us have left the world behind us and happily enjoying our carefree photo snapping desire up on this mountain. 

Reaching our 1st challenge of the day

Taking a shot at the Mt XueShan Main peak in the distant

One of our more senior climb mates.

Around 7:30am, we came to our 1st challenge of the trek.  A section of the path that requires some good handwork and arm power to guide ourselves down a steep rock path. Not knowing what lies for the rest of the day and the next day of challenge, this section creation some excitement in me. For those that was climbing for the 1st time, I wondered what sort of butterflies do they have in their stomach.

All is good, just use the ropes to guide yourself down.

Taking a peep down, wondering what is install for us.

Looking back from where we descended from.

Our guide was the first to went down to assess the rock path condition and see if there was a need to provide extra safey precautions. The porters also aided him to stand guard at different stretch of the rock path to guide us and to me to provide a comfort spot for climbers to feel that they are in safe hands. I took the last man to go down the rock path, gripping tightly to the ropes that was laid by previous climb groups.  I could see everything else that has cleared the rock path enjoying their 1st difficult challenge for the entire trek, up on the rock wall. When i reach the bottom of the narrow ridgeline path, the rest of the gang has started to move on. I could see the mix feelings and excitement some of the members have. For me, it reminded me of Mt Qilai north peak where you need to climbing with all fours to get to the summit and the same coming down as well.  Going down is a lot more scarier than going up.

Staying close to the wall is always the best safety advice.

More and more legwork to the test.

Stopping to admire the distant mountain with clear skies

Me, taking a breather behind some rocks. In case someone infront trigger a rock slide.

From here onwards, it was no longer the usual mountain trail that one usually trek on many of Taiwan more popular treks. It is mainly rock paths cutting across deep ravines, paths that wraps around the jagged rocks. Paths at such altitude above 3200m will mainly be rock paths and minimal vegetation. This is the unique landscape of mountain trails at such an altitude.

Me and our senior climber (Mr Chan)

Following the person in front closely so don't have to hunt for the right path.

Just a few more steps away from the summit of Mt PinTian

At 8:45am, we reached our 1st summit for day 2. Mt PinTian (品田山), standing at a grand height of 3524m. Weather was superb today and every photoshot you take of the mountain view is stunning and breath taking. Just before we reach Mt PinTian summit, another group of 3, whom we shared the hut with, was returning back to the Xinda hut after their successful summit.  Well wishes were given to us for the difficult trek ahead. From this summit viewpoint, we had a full 360 view of the surrounding range, including the fame Mt DaBaoJianShan (大霸尖山) which the locals compared its to the Swiss Alps of Matterhorn.

Gathering at the summit of Mt PinTian

One more to add to my taiwan's hundred peaks list.

Wefie at Mt PinTian summit (facing the sun) 

After a 15mins enjoyment of the summit, we were tramping on the loose rocky path towards the PinTian precipice (品田断崖）。It was a slow descend from the Mt Pintian summit, lots of sliding at times and care has to be taken not to create a mini rock avalanche that could injured our climb mates at the front of the pack. Our group has a climb mates who was new to mountain trekking would just trigger much rock movement in a very crude and violent way and has to be "advised" to go light on his footwork. 

Proceeding on to the precipice after leaving Mt PinTian summit

Careful on the footwork, not to trigger rock slide , or worst oneself sliding off the sides

Preparing to go down the Stage#1 PinTian precipe for a short descend

Not that scary but you cant see when you are above.

After a short 10 mins on the loose rock path, we reached our 2nd major precipice which is a vertical descend that need to rely on ropes, good footwork and strong arm power to get to the bottom of the precipice. This is the notorious PinTian precipice, stage 2 (品田断崖, 第二断).

Stage#2 Pintian precipice (assessing the difficulty)

While waiting, looking at the mountains on this fine weather day

Here goes the 1st climber down the ropework

Lowering the heavy backpacks.

Our lady pinky climber taking her turn.

Due to the higher risk level, our guide went about to setup additional safety precaution using ropes hat he brought alone to be turned into instant body harness. We were instructed not to rely on the safety line for the descend but on the pre-setup ropes and our footwork to perform the descend. The porters went down to establish the descent path on where we should place our foot as we did the descend. Looks to me more like abseiling . When one is holding onto the ropes and climbing down, you cant really see where you should place your foot. It does take courage and some guts to let your life to hang by the strength of your arm. With the help of the porter and teammates, and of course the safety line, everyone reached the bottom of the precipice safely.  The presence of the safety line does provided a sense of security and boost the confidence in each of the climbers to execute the descent.  It was really a great experience doing this section of the climb. Due to our numbers, waiting for our turns and getting everyone safely down took about an hour. Backpacks were lowered first followed by the climbers of the group.

Photo shot taken from below at the base.

Stage#2 PinTian precipice

Our yellow man providing the guidance (go left, go right)

Doing the side walk while descending

Me, making my move slowly.

Moving off from the Stage#2 precipice of PinTian

After clearing the 1st stage of the PinTian precipice, I thought we could enjoy some less easy trek but in mere 20mins, we were at the 3rd stage of the PinTian precipice  (品田断崖, 第三断).. The difficult was lesser than the 1st as there are better footholds and the rock path has some gradient that made is less dependent on the arm power but you would still need that to guide your way down. We proceeded the descent for the 3rd stage with our backpacks on. The path allows the porters to stationed themselves midway to guide us on the easier way to take. Again it was a waiting game, taking turns to clear the path. As we were seated on the top of the rock cropping waiting for our turn, we got to enjoyed the fine weather and the grand mountain view in front of us. It also made us to wonder when the weather is unforgiving, clearing these stages of the precipices can be a nightmare. And knowing Taiwan is to be place of frequent earthquakes and looking at the big boulders above us and where we were seated, this is definitely not a spot to stay to long for.

Stage#3 of PinTian precipice ( going down with backpacks)

Queuing for turn. Since can descend with backpack, it will be easier than the #1.

Waiting for my turn, enjoying the sun and fine weather.

Lotsa of places to place the foot. Just need to be a little careful.

Down the Stage#3 PinTian precipice.

Down the Stage#3 PinTian precipice.

Last man ( our guide)

There were 4 of us who were the last to clear the stage 3 precipice with our guide; while the rest of the team members went ahead with the porters to gain some distance over the ridge line path.  This 2nd stage took lesser time about 30 mins to clear compared to stage 2, but with 30 mins apart, there was quite some catching up to do under the hot sun. Weather was great, the skies were blue and Mr Sun is all out to welcome us.

Great view of the mountain before after clearing stage#3 Pintian precipice

The path along the ridgeline if u can see it

Seeing one of our climbers at the top of the hilltop.

The gang of 4, trying to catch up with the rest. 

At times we could see our colourful team members a few peaks away from us and while we fastened our pace, we didn't forget to continue on our passion to photo taking.

During the catching up, with our guide at a farther distance away as he had to pack his climbing gear, there was a part where we could not seem to find the path. There were some vegetation at the hilltop along the ridge line path and couldn't make out where the path disappeared. Of course we could just follow the direction and bash through a path but extra care has to taken in case there is steep drop beyond the alpine shrubs.  With the guide, we found the path where it was originally ended, just that the vegetation blocked our sight and the picture just didn't look much on a continuing path.  This is a typical situation that climbers will usually encountered if they have never done the trail before and could easily mistaken a path as the intended marked trail. It always pay to back track if suspicious on something that is not right. Best is always to have a map and GPS in case venture too far out.

Great weather for climbing just a little warm under the sun.

Solo man looking out into the distant.

At the summit with the rest of gang at Mt BuXiuLan.

Looking towards My Xueshan main peak.

Another summit to add to the taiwan's summit list.

After leaving the 2nd stage precipice around 11:30am, we caught up with the front party at the summit of our 2nd summit of the day. Mt BuXiuLan (布秀蘭山, 3438m) around 1pm. Didn't really know when the others have reach this point, but we could see there were already done with the photo taking and were snacking and resting after the steep ascent.  The 4 of us could only have a short few minutes of photo taking and off we proceeded on the trek again. We were actually tranversing on the actual Holy Ridge line path, crossing small peaks along the ridge line like a slow roller coaster. Both sides were steep rocky slopes with little vegetation. We were thankful for the good weather for the day and it can get quite scary on a merciless weather day with strong winds blowing across this path.

Moving off from the Mt BuXiuLan summit and onto the ridgeline again

Wonder what is the name of the peak behind,

It was 2 hours on this ridge line path and with the sunny skies, we could see our teammates slowly down and in need of rest but the terrain didn't provide much good rest point. Around 3:30pm, after scaling up some big boulders, we took a longer break, finding possible good spot to rest of legs. In the end we had a movie going kinda seating arrangements with the front row facing the vast mountain view, while me and the others were on some boulders higher up. A look across to the guide also showed signs of tiredness from the load he was carrying and doing all the safety precautionary measures did has its toll on him. It was 2:45pm, knowing we still have some distance to clear and wouldn't want to be still climbing boulders at night. we picked ourselves up  and continued on the trek.

A steep rocky path to overome.

Me, taking a photoshot on the steepness and teammates.

Finally reaching  a place to rest the legs after the steep climb.

Crossing boulders are a norm on this trek

Crossing a section that is steep and  ground is made of loose rocks (sliding prone)

It was 3:45pm, we have finally arrived at the last stage which is the SuMiDa precipice (素密達斷崖, ). This stage has the longer distance to clear with the first section almost being vertical drop but just a few meters but the inability to see your foothold when doing the descent created a sense of difficult and great risk even though the 2nd section is gradual walk on rock jagged rocks. The guide made a call to setup safety ropes, and it was like a network of rope works covers all the 3 sections. We have a few strong members who were picked to do the initial descend using their pure arm power to scale down and helping to setup the network with the guide and the porters. While me and the others were waiting up above behind the rock. the wait was initially fine with the warm evening sun on us. But the wait took about an hour and with the sun setting behind the mountain behind us, we were freezing up there and many of us would not prefer to open up our packs to take out our warmer clothing. The waiting area was part of the rock path and not a good place to unpack. Stuffs get roll off downhill easily and it has happened to our group.

Taking a peek at the SuMiDa precipe

Making our way down. This stretch has the longest distance

Me, taking my time for the descend

It was 5pm and all of us began the descend on the SuMiDa precipice. It was almost 6pm when all members have reached the base of the precipice and with the skies starting to turn dark, so is the temperature and everyone wanted to start moving to keep warm. Our original lodging plan has to be changed as we would not be able to reach the North Peak lodge before total darkness and scaling the rocky path is not too wise; and so we made our nights stay at the SuMiDa Lodge (素蜜達山屋) which is nearer to use. Although we did not make bookings for this lodge, it is unlikely to be occupied as we were the only ones on the Holy ridge line trek coming from the direction o Pintian. We were also aware who were the other teams that would be trekking the same path. 

From the base of the 3rd precipice, it was a again a steep climb but now it was within the forest trail and with the thick canopy, there was little light and our headlamps were ready to provide the extra needed illumination.  It was a long day for everyone and the pace was slowly down  while we were trying to reach the lodge so that we could rest for the day. It took us about another hour to reach the lodge. The last 100m after seeing the lodge from a distance in low lighting was comforting to know the day end has come, but the last few steps to climb coupled with the tiredness from the day, it seemed to take forever to reach. Finally it was touch down at the lodge around 6:30pm. This is a double deck lodge, similar to Xinda lodge but smaller in size and less well maintained maybe due to its remoteness compared to the rest. Dinner was served around 7:30pm after everyone has settled down. I got myself to sleep on the upper  desk in case of rats coming in at night due to the presence of food which the porters did their cooking below.

Day 3- The Challenge Continues (Chasing Time)

Today was suppose to be the day where we would scale the last stretch of the ridge line crossing the summit line to the main peak of XueShan before descending to the always crowded 369 mountain lodge. But we were short on the distance covered which our previous accommodation should be the North peak lodge 3hrs down the trek. Catching up the  time would not possible for such a big group and some were showing signs of tiredness and also would require trekking the ridge line in darkness if we were to start much earlier. A consensus was made the night before to just reach the North Peak summit of Xuebei and taking the short cut to descend along the water source trail to 369 lodge.

Outside the SuMiDa lodge, preparing for the day 3 of trek

SuMiDa Lodge

And here we were, 5:30am, all ready outside the SuMiDa lodge. The weather seemed to be good too with the morning sunrise piercing through the forest grounds. 6pm all of us were ready for the climb again. Just outside of the lodge a trail marker pointed in 3 directions to 雪北山，穆特勤布山, 素蜜達山 where we came from. This trail itself has so many peaks to cover and a good 5 day trek would be more practical rather than our current 4 day trek.

Direction signage just outside the SuMiDa lodge

Packs up and ready to go.

Morning weather was cold and so many had their face covered up.

We left the lodge at 6am and continue on the forest grounds  and it was an hour of walking that we cleared the forest and into the open again. Here we were climbing along a rock trail to the top of the hill ahead of us. It was constantly crossing peaks after peaks of these small hilltops. Gone were the scary vertical descends and safety ropes, but the trail was steep at times and extra care has to be taken. After an  hour and half from the lodge, we went through a steep descend using the ropes anchored by previous climb group ( or maybe by the national park).  There was a sense of satisfaction after scaling and looking back at what we have overcome.  

Every morning is climb climb climb. Well the weather was good though

After a long great drop in altitude over the rock path.

More of our team members coming down.

Me, at the base after descended from the rock path

Our first break of the day came at 8am at a small shaded hilltop provided by a group of alpine tree and brushes ( sorry me not a botanist and wouldn't know the names). Snacks and drinks were out to replenish the short morning workout. Beyond this point, we were hiking on the exposed ridgeline again, seeing the rock steep drop on both sides. Weather was good and wind was mild. Couldn't imagine again the danger of taking this section of the trek during bad weather.

Ridge line path heavily covered by trees and trunks.

Seeing Mt Xuebei (Mt Xueshan north peak) at the background

At 10am, we reached a very steep and loosely packed rock path. There wasn't a clear path  on where is the trail as the gradien tof the rock face has been washed away and it seemed that was up to you to pick the best path.  With the porters at the front , at least we know where to head for. One by one we follow the guidance from the climber at the front to direct us to the easier path.  It was a tough scale and we just thought that this was just another day trek on this Holy ridge line trek, not expecting that we were actually scaling up to the junction point that will lead us to the Mt XueShan North Peak. After 15 mins of sliding and climbing, we reached the small junction with the signboard showing  directions to the North peak and the North peak lodge of Xueshan.  

Coming down from the rock path above from the ridgeline

Steep climb on all fours to get better balance due to steepness and loose ground

Emerging from the steep loose rock path.

One by one all of us make our way up the steep path towards XueBei (Notth Peak)

At the intersection where we dropped our packs for the short walk to the north peak

From here to the North peak summit is a quick 10mins walk and we could already see the summit at a short distance away. So we dropped our backpacks, took our camera and off to some boulder hopping to reach the summit. The summit was wide and unobstructed with a 360 view of the near by mountain peaks. From here we could see the ice-capped peak of the main peak of Mt Xueshan. It was kinda of disappointing for me that we couldn't have enough time to continue on the jagged ridge line path all the way to the highest point in the Mt Xueshan mountain range. Bur safety comes first as we wouldn't wan to be walking in the dark and some members already showed signs of slowing down. There was a need to  head down to 369 lodge as one of our members had developed altitude sickness. Water retention was already happening for him and the only solution was to head to lower grounds.

Knowing that this summit was the last for the day, we took our time to take pictures and enjoyed the feeling of standing on the summit. I think we spend about 30 mins here with the good weather encouraging us to stay longer. But we know the trail to 369 lodge would take some time as well and so we left the North Peak Summit feeling accomplished but a little sad that our adventure will be ending with this summit for the day.

Mt XueShan Main peak, as we get closer ( pic taken from summit of North Peak)

Looking back where we came from along the ridgeline.

Another summit into the bag

The only vegetation on the summit.

Summit picture with the gang at Mt XueShan North Peak

Summit of Mt XueShan North Peak

11am, bags up, we started the descend from this crossroad junction and navigating through the alpine shrubs.  It was an easy descend and at a lower ground from the summit, maybe due to its shaded location from the sun, there were patches of snow on the ground. 

Continuing on the path after leaving the intersection for the North Peak

Remnants of snow from the cold front in the summer period.

The trail continued on to the XueBei Lodge (雪北山屋）。The original place of accommodation for our day 2 night rest spot.  It was around 12 noon and so we had our lunch break at this lodge. The bread that i bought from Taipei 3 days ago was still in good condition. Some of our team mates went to refill their water supply from the storage tank behind the lodge. The water quality is many times better than the previous night stay at SuMiDa lodge which has a brown coloring, not sure if it is coming from the rust but still safe to drink. I had my purification tablets in place and so lesser worry. Seeing the clear and better quality water here at this lodge, it was a pour all out and refill them up. It was a thirst quenching buffet at this point. Everyone was starting to get a little tired from the hot weather and this buffer water point did help us to recover.

It was  a good 30 mins of rest before we started on the trail again, and it we were greeted by some some climbs again. Around 1pm, we were on the rocky ridge line again,  the hot sun has taken a backstage with some clouds and mists coming onto the mountain ridge.  The view of the Mt Xueshan main peak was drawing nearer. The path was getting narrow but still comfortable and safe enough to walk with much anxiety. 

Up and down we go on the ridge line

Walking on the ridge line again

Narrow path, inverted V-shaped path. 

Looking to the right side of the drop. May look gradual.

Me and Mt XueShan main peak (although we not going there)

At the this section of the trail, there was a steep and narrow descend path with ropes at the side to provide for safety. The level of risk along the trail could easily be indicated by the presence of ropes. You see them and instinctively you know that you have to be careful there. As  I walked down this trail, i stayed closed to the rope side of the trail, it wasn't very comfortable to see the steep almost vertical drop to my right. After i reached the safer side of the trail, I took a shot of the trail we just cleared.

Steep and scary path with ropes. It is a long drop possibly fatal

Another steep mountain to overcome

On the safer side of the ridgeline, away from the wind.

At the top of this section of the ridge line.

At the intersection that breaks away from the ridgeline trail for the short cut to lodge 369

Taking a long break while waiting for the other members to arrive

Around 2pm, we reach the intersection of the trail that breaks off from the ridgeline trail that continues on to the 北陵角，and to the main peak of Mt Xuehsan. But as agreed with everyone, there wasn't enough time to procced on to Mt Xueshan, and further more, we were still waiting for a few more members who still hasn't catch up with the group. It was 30mins wait at the intersection. This short cut trail is the trail that cuts immediately towards the rock valley. It was a long stretch down a wide valley of rocks that seemed to be moving its way down after every typhoon or thaw season after the ice has melted.

At the start of the forest trail beside the rock river.

As I slid down the rocky path, it reminded me of the times when i was doing the same sand sliding down the descend path of Mt Fuji in Japan. This short cut descend was great in reducing the altitude for the needed. The porter has already reached the part of the rock path slide so that we don't continue on which we would get ourselves to the bottom of the valley. The marker was just a yellow ribbon marker at the side to catch the climbers attention. Once we left the rock slide, there was a nicely marked trail indicating to 369 lodge. Time was already 3pm and we would have about 4 hours of daylight max. But seeing the distance and signage to 369 reassure us that all is still on time to get to the lodge just nice for dinner time. From here we entered the forest area around the Black forest area. This part of the mountain is filled with giant tall trees towering to the the sky. This trail will lead us to the water source of the 369 lodge where they gave constant water supply via the complex network of water pipes that channel water supply from the mountain stream all the  way to the water taps of Lodge 369.

Entering the black forest area, bidding farewell to Holy Ridge Trail

Navigating the open undergrowth of the forest ( easy to get lost in the dark)

Taking a short break.

The forest ground is vastly bare and lots of room to walk and also easily to get lost, esp at night. In the day, what we did was to aim for the yellow trail markers left behind by other climbing society which follows the national park trail signage ( much less and only found at some distance apart). At times I had to stop and hunt for these yellow makers when the trail doesn't look like a trail anymore.

Reaching the stream where the water supply for lodge 369 comes from.

After another 45 mins from the rock slide path, we reached the water crossing which is the water source. There was a single rope to help hikers cross the shallow stream but some of the area was slippery as they were covered with green moss. To the right there was a waterfall where the water was flowing into this stream. This waterfall area is where the complex network of black water pipes using the nature of gravity to channel the water down to the lodge. The older unused pipes were buried under the forest ground, and at times emerging from the side of the trail and disappearing into the side of the trail again. As for the new ones, they would run along the trail and occasional there are a few water tanks overfilling with water.

Doing the water crossing with the help of rope just in case (see the slack on rope)

Resting on the other side while waiting for the others

Upstream where the waterfall and source of water

After crossing the mountain stream, the trail cut across the forest grounds again, winding along the side of forest where the forest valley is where the water stream runs. The setting sun just came out of is afternoon tea break and casting is evening golden rays onto the tall yet narrow tree trunks of the forest. Some parts of the trail was completely blocked off by fallen trees and some of the section we had to walk and balance ourselves on the fallen tree trunks.  The path on the fallen tree trunks were poker dotted by the many holes from the hiking pole that were use by previous climbers.

Fallen trees blocking the way, covering the trail

Follow the signs.

Following the trail meandering within the forest grounds.

Stopping for a while to feel the tranqulity of the forest

Leaving the forest grounds and into the open plains. Lodge 369 just around the corner

Me, 3rd times on this path and to Lodge 369

Directional signs for the main peak, lodge 369 and the water source 

At 5pm, we cleared the forest grounds and into the vast openness of the short alpine shrubs. Lodge 369 was just around the corner . Once out in the open, with little wind, there was a sense of calm and we could just stand there and listen to the breeze around us. Our day of adventure has come to an end. As we got closer to the lodge, the sound of civilization came back there was a big student group who was staying at the 369 lodge and some of them were still on their way back to the lodge after going to the Mt Xueshan main peak. Heard that the path to the summit was still covered in snow and some found it difficult without the right spiked shoes ( or crampons) to help them. For us,  the remaining of our team mates were still some distance behind as the trail after the water crossing was very safe and so we were allowed to go on our own to the lodge as some us know the way and stay within the smaller groups for the movement.

Safely arriving at lodge 369

While waiting for the rest to reach the lodge, and also the bed bunk arrangement from the guide who was with the remaining group, it was picture time again. For me this is my 3 time at Lodge 369. Nothing much has changed, the main building is still the same. The expensive biodegradable toilet was shifted closer to the main building ( poor thing for those whose bed bunks are nearer to that toilet, which was eventually us).  It was around 6 pm when everyone in the group reached the lodge safely. It was a sigh of relief from our mountain guide as we traverse the rugged and dangerous cliffs and precipices. Reaching lodge 369 marked the end of going down on all fours to advance on the trail. From here onward is a hands free , pure leg work kind of hiking only. The porters who were the first to reach were busily preparing dinner in the common kitchen with their colleagues who were also preparing dinner for the big student group. Dinner was served around 6:30 pm, and it was totally different experience from the previous 3 days of eating within our group versus now with many students around the dining area and even need to queue to wash our eating utensil and topping up our water bottles.

Day 4 - The Descend

Today morning, we broke up into 2 groups, One group has gathered at 3:30am and started their trek towards the summit of the Mt Xuesan main peak but only to the valley grounds looking up to Mt Xueshan main peak. Morning condition where the snow on the ground might become ice and without the proper gear like crampons, heading up to the summit can be risky. For me and a few of us, we choose to stay back at the lodge to wait for them to return. We have arranged to leave the lodge at 8am to take our own sweet time to descend to the trail head, but the 1st group that went up to the 雪山圈谷 to see the snow capped summit return before 8am and so in end all of us left the lodge 369 together.

Missed the sunrise, was still sleeping in bed.

Lodge 369, with the bio-toilet at the background

School edutcaional expedition. (teacher giving a lecture)

During the morning, the student groups with their teachers in charge had a debrief session where they shared their experiences , challenges on the climb itself. This was an educational tour for the students to learn being social awareness, environment awareness, team building and support for each other . The teacher had a long session with the students all assembled and seated on the steps to the lodge entrance. The talk was quite interesting and for me since we have time, i just stood nearby listen on to what the teachers were educating them on. It reminded me of the school days when we were students and carefree of the current work life in current society. To each his own time and place. One day these students will enter into society, making a living and may ended up like me complaining about work. 

OK, back to the blog. We took our group photo at 369 lodge before we left the place at 830am. The descend from 369 is enjoyable and easy, and even allow us to achieve one more last summit of the hundreds peak of Taiwan, that is the Mt Xueshan East Peak (雪山东峰）。From lodge 369 , it required a short roller coast climb scaling up and down like walking on top of a camel's hump. It was maybe 3 or 4 of such crossing that we reached the last one which was the summit of the East peak.

The black forest of the Mt Xueshan main peak. The burnt trees doesn't exist anymore

Group photo

Starting our descend from Lodge 369. Guide taking a break at lodge so we slow down a little.

On the popular east trail of Mt Xueshan.

Passing by some cherry blossom tree.

Arriving at the Mt Xueshan East Peak

Me, at the East peak for the 3rd time.

Memories came back when i was here almost 8 years ago. Every rock still looks the same.

Summit of Mt Xueshan East Peak

Group photo at the East Peak

Me at the small intersection.

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It took us an hour of slow walking to reach the summit of the east peak. We dropped out bag at the main trail and walk up a short but steep path to the summit.  We took about 15mins to snap pictures of the surrounding and of course a group photo of the gang as shown in the picture. Another 3 of the group went ahead for the descent when we met them at the small intersection where we dropped our bags.  From this point, it is all the way down down and down, no more climbing up, not even a small ascend of few meters. It took us a quick 15mins to clear the "Crying Slope" (哭坡）。I guess the name applies to those that is doing the ascent and not the descend. But looking back at it, and comparing to what we have cleared for the past few days, we would be crying non stop all the way.

Leaving the East Peak behind us.

Back into the shady forest ground on a hot sunny day

As this trail is part of the popular, touristy Mt Xueshan east trail, we met a lot of climbers making their way up with their night stay at Lodge 369. We came across a few western folks and some even doing their climb in solo. Hikers on this route usually will be able to get permit as this route is considered a standard easy trail and is so clearly marked that you usually dont need a guide to take on this route.

Reaching the base of the Crying Slope.

At 10:20am, we reached the viewing platform at the base of the "Crying Slope". It was a quick stop to rest our knees after the continuous descend. the sun was out in full swing and it was really warm at times. Bright and sunny.  The viewing platform has no shade and without too much of sun tanning (which we had enough for days), we continued on our descend into the forest trail that slowly transverse down the mountain slope to the closest lodge to the trail head which is the Qika Lodge (七卡山莊)。 The route to Qika was well shelthered and easy to walk, but the stress on the knee was continuously building up and when we reach Qika and stop to take a break, i could fill the strain started to creep up on the knees even though i was wearing knee guard.   Knowing it was a mere less than 2 hrs to the trail head where our mini bus was waiting, we continued on , looking forward to the return to civilization.  

Break time for a quick laugh

At the Xueshan East trail head ( park ranger hut in background) 

Back to civilization

Gathered outside the park ranger station waiting for the rest to arrive

Group photo marking the end of the wonderful trekking experience

Close up group photo for a team well done.

All Aboard!!!!

12 noon, we finally reached the trail head of the Mt Xueshan east trail where the park ranger building is. To me, seeing the building was like reaching the finishing line of a marathon. The sight of seeing electrical power cables over the roof of the building tells us we are back to civilization.  The bus driver was already there at the trail head and was happy to see us as well so that we didn't have to wait for us any longer.

Long awaiting commercial "meal"

We had our last group photo at the park ranger building (okay, is a small hut or chalet) and up the bus we went for the long drive back to Taipei via Yilan which was the stop for the log awaited "feast".  It was a long drive that took about 4hrs to reach the city of Yilan. Our guide brought us to the town's famous fish ball soup, and subsequently based on the request from us knowing the good tasting roast chicken from our last climb, we proceeded to the same restaurant just before the Snow Mountain Tunnel freeway for their delicious and cheap stir fry dishes which the Taiwanese called them "Kuai-Chao" ( 快炒）. As shown in the picture, our guide having the honor to tear up the roast chicken into pieces. It was a meal everyone enjoyed before putting a closure to this climb event.

We reached Taipei main railway station around 8 pm due to the long traffic jam before the Snow Mountain tunnel freeway which made us took the longer mountain road into taipei city.